I currently use an iPhone XS that I got from my family because I cannot afford a new phone right now.
The battery health was 77% when I was given this phone, so it drains from 100% to 20% instantly.
I carry a 10000mah powerbank with me, and I have to charge the phone so many times that the powerbank also drains itself before my work is done.
I can get the battery replaced for $35 at a local repair shop but I always have the mindset that I should save money in every way.
I try really hard to resist the urge because $35 is a lot of money for me.
But my stupid brain keeps telling me to replace the battery because the brain is wired with modern tech mindsets.
I always tell myself that people years ago would have suffered with a worse battery on a new phone, but my brain ignores it.
I wish my brain was smarter so it won't get triggered over a phone

The damages that brought my car into the collision shop were very minor. Replacement of bumper, hood, and radiator support (radiator was fine and fan was spinning.) The car was perfectly mechanically sound, and had just been at a mechanic shop around a month prior for an oil change and "complimentary inspection" which returned nothing significant except that my 2-year-old battery would need replacement soon.
When I arrived at the collision shop, they had me sign off on a work authorization form. Related points of interest in this document:

• Authorize them to perform repair work described in the repair estimate form.
• Not responsible for loss or damage beyond control of the shop.
• Unless otherwise specified by the customer, the vehicle will be driven to a car wash to be detailed before delivery. (using this one only to point out my car can't be driven anymore, and I certainly didn't tell them not to detail it)
• Must authorize a Pre/Post Scan. "Refusal of pre/post scan services releases [company name] from any and all legal responsibilities from any safety hazards or consequences directly involved with not being able to properly diagnose any remaining repairs needed."
• There are storage fees of $75 per day applied 72 hours after notification that the vehicle repairs is complete and ready for pickup.

I drove my car after my accident. They admitted to driving my car around their shop "just fine." There was a parts delay, so they had the car moving around their lot for over a month before repairs began. The pre-scan returned codes for weight control (which is passenger airbag) and the traction control system. They also caught wind from a document in my glovebox that I had "done some transmission work" in October of 21. (It was a total transmission replacement)
On Tuesday (almost 2 weeks ago) I received a call that there was only a minor part still back ordered, but due to arrive soon enough that they were going to begin work and they expected the car to be complete on Thursday.
On Thursday, I received a call that the body work was complete, but now the car was stuck in park and throwing a new error code. They gave me the code, and told me that the code was "turbo clutch. Powertrain" They were trying to say it was a transmission problem and use the fact that I had transmission work in the past to exclude any fault of their own in this matter, as well as justification to refuse to touch it. The ACTUAL code was PO237, which is in no way related to transmission. It is an error that there is too little airflow going through the engine's turbo sensor, and nothing to do with the transmission system at all. According to the dealership when I called in inquiring, the reason it won't come out of park is a safety mechanism, there is wiring for the sensor behind the bumper (which was replaced) and part of the airflow pieces attach to the radiator support (which was also replaced).
When I called explaining it, they agreed to have a mobile mechanic look at the car "because their mechanic refused because they didn't want me to come back and say that he caused the problem by digging around" They told me the name of the mobile mechanic, and every single review they have on Google for the past 4 years is a 1-star review.
Their mobile mechanic looked at it on Monday and Tuesday. They told me on Monday that they had cleared the codes, and there were no codes returning now, but the car was still stuck in park. They said the mobile mechanic thinks its the body control system but on Monday I was told that was not his final answer because he really isn't sure. (A body control system is basically the central unit controlling the entire electrical system for the car) They also told me that my battery had died (which was not unexpected as it was 2 years old) and that they dropped another battery in the car. The battery dying is their reasoning for calling it a failure of the body control system, as a symptom is draining batteries. That was not a symptom I was encountering before... I had never once jumpstarted that 2 year old battery.
I didn't hear a thing back on Tuesday. I called twice on Wednesday and they wouldn't take my calls, but I left messages stating that I did not authorize their mobile mechanic to do any repairs on my electrical system.
They didn't take or return my calls on Thursday, either.
Finally, when I called Friday they told me that they want me to pick my car up. It is still not coming out of park. Their assessment of this is the "body control system failure" and that it is not something caused by either the accident or the repairs, and "its just something that commonly happens in my make and model of car." (It is not even in the top 10 mechanical problems encountered by my make and model of car, and there are ZERO instances of anyone discussing it in the subreddit for my model)
They specifically told me that my car is still not mechanically sound enough to drive. Given that it is stuck in park, I would need a flatbed tow to retrieve it.
They want me to come retrieve it on Monday, and they want me to call and give them a heads up "so their manager can be prepared."
I am concerned that if I pick the car up from them, I am effectively signing off as accepting the current state of the car as "complete."
What advice would you give me on next steps? Do I accept my car and tow it to the dealership for diagnosis? Will I be able to hold them financially liable for these repairs? (I should note that my insurer paid for the collision repairs, but my insurer hasn't exactly been the most reputable through this either... Which is a whole side story that can be summarized in that they forced me to use their choice of shops, and I've never once been able to reach the adjuster involved.)
I am in Texas.

Hey guys, so I this one I can't seem to figure out myself. My laptop in question is the hp Omen 15 2020, r7 4800h, rtx2060 model, i have upgraded it to 32gb of g.skill RAM, alltough I know thats not the issue, the issue I had was allready present before the issue.
So, on random occasions, like maybe once a month or so, the laptop randomly goes into hibernating mode. If I look at the log in the windows event viewer, I see it did that because of a "critical low battery error", the action setup in control panel is to go into hibernating mode when this occurs, so that works at least.
Thing is, this happens aswell for no apperent reason, it just does it sometimes no matter how charged the battery is, and last time it happend on the charger, battery was at 100% according to windows.
Things ive tried -> reconnecting battery, windows 10 pro reinstall, litterally removed and replaced the battery (not changed, just got it out, and back in, same battery) reset all bios options, let it completely die once (to clear cmos, yes this works like this), run the battery test from bios. Idk, all seems fine.
So TL:DR, laptop randomly goes into hibernating mode because the "critical battery level is reached", even though its plugged in, or charged way above the critical level.

Hello!
I would be very grateful for some advice guidance! I have a Citroen C3 2011 and I took her for an MOT prep (I’m in the UK) last September. The mechanic did not do a good job and a hub(?) was warped causing her to make a very loud noise on breaking. I finally took her to another mechanic back in January, however, whenever I press the brakes perhaps at 30/40mph, the whole car vibrates significantly but there’s no noise. She never used to be like this and the mechanic is a bit dismissive of it and I just hate driving her now.
My other issue is that yesterday I was driving when I got a battery/wiring fault, my power steering failed, my ABS went and got an STOP sign. She had to be towed and when we looked under the bonnet, it turns out that the timing belt that was only replaced at the end of January, decided it had had enough and was completely gone
She’s gonna back to the original mechanic but should I be worried that the engine is fucked? What could the vibrating be from when braking??
TYSM.

Hello, friends! I hope you're all having a nice weekend. I'm an RG350P owner thinking about an upgrade to an RG353P, but I have some questions that I was hoping the fine people of this subreddit could help answer before I pull the trigger. Any and all help is greatly appreciated!
For what it's worth, I'm hoping to hold on to this device as my main retro handheld for at least a few years. I'm a one-device person, so this would essentially replace my 350P--which I really have liked, but I've been thinking about upgrading to something that is a little nicer in the OS-department.
In a perfect world, I'd wait for the perfect device (stacked shoulders, larger screen, easier hdmi-out, strong battery life, linux os, stereo sound), but I suspect the 405 isn't going to be for me and I don't know if I want to wait for the next cycle of handhelds. I've been eyeing the Retroid 3+ (especially in Atomic Purple), but android wigs me out and that start/select placement is just silly (thanks for the design, Taki). The 353V, too, calls me (Atomic Purple!!!), but I just know that the horizontal is better in the hands for me in the long term and I'd rather have stereo sound.
So the 353P really seems to be the device for me. And that SNES aesthetic is pretty rad.
Anyway, questions below. Thank you for your help!

• How does battery life look in the real world? Around 6 hours?
• Do people really have trouble with button placement? Russ from RetroGameCorps notes this in his video, but is it a real-world problem?
• I know there are a number of OS options--stock, JELOS, and ArkOS. What do most people recommend these days? I'm a fan of simple menus that look nice enough, but the goal is ultimately to play games rather than tinker. I'd like to generally set it and forget it.
• How is the state of HDMI out? I thought I read somewhere that one of the OS updates made it less than desirable to use. I love having HDMI-out and use it quite a bit with my RG350P, but a more streamlined system would be nice.
  • Similarly, is the 353P as such that you can use it as a mini-console? Plugged in to HDMI, using a bluetooth controller, with the 353 plugged into power? One of the things I don't like about my 350P is that I read it shouldn't be played and charged at the same time, which is a bit of a pain.
• Is it possible (and relatively easy) to pull my saved games from my 350P and transfer them to a 353P? I currently run a skinned 350teric OS on my 350P. I'd love to not lose progress on a number of games, but I guess it wouldn't be the end of the world.
• What does real--world N64 look like on this device? I don't have it now on my 350P, so it's not a big deal, but it would be cool to play a few classics, or potentially do a little multiplayer on HDMI-out.
• Does bluetooth support headphones? It would be nice to use wireless headphones occasionally, but this is in no way a dealbreaker for me.
• I have always been envious of button mods, and it would be awesome to have the concave/convex SNES-style buttons on a device like this. Is it terribly complicated to switch them out? (This is a super low priority for me, but I thought I'd ask.)
• Anything a current Anbernic owner wouldn't expect?

Thank you all so much for your wisdom!

This weekly thread is designed to be a place for all the new members of the subreddit and Vita community to come and say hello as well as where they (or vets) can ask any question they might have (no matter how redundant or simple). So, say "Hi", ask away, and welcome to /Vita!

FAQ

We get these questions a lot, so we're incorporating them into this thread. Have something you feel fits here? Shoot us a modmail!
Is the Vita worth buying in (current year)?
Value is ultimately subjective. If you like the library of games on the Vita and have the money, probably. If you want new, modern games then probably not. If you have specific questions about the Vita's capabilities feel free to ask in this thread, but keep in mind you're asking in a Vita-centric community and will likely get mostly affirmative responses.
Is the PlayStation store shutting down?
No. Sony did announce they were closing the Vita storefront in 2021, but later reversed that decision. It is possible that the store will be shut down at some point in the future, but no specific dates/timeframes are known.
Can I still buy games from the PlayStation store?
Yes. However, you will need to have funds in your wallet for the purchase. You can add funds to your wallet via web, PS4, or PS5. More information is available here.
I'm having trouble signing into my Vita! Help!
As of the 3.74 update in May 2022, you need a device password to sign in to your Vita. You can do that here. Please make sure you are on firmware 3.74 and using a device password before making a thread.
My Vita is in an error loop with the QR code on sign-in. What should I do?
This happens sometimes, and nobody's really sure why. However, community member LoganN64 has been able to provide instructions that consistently work for getting through this:

1. Log in to the PSN website with a Laptop or Desktop computer.
   
2. Click on your avatar in the top right corner and go to SETTINGS.
   
3. Scroll down to SECURITY and then scroll down to ACTIVATE/TURN ON 2 FACTOR AUTHENTICATION.
   
4. Click on GENERATE NEW DEVICE CODE, write this down exactly as it is case sensitive.
   
5. Go to your Vita and bring up the sign in page, enter the email associated with your account then enter the NEW DEVICE CODE as your password. Click on save password to avoid getting a new code each time..
   

I'm no longer able to transfer files from PS3 to Vita. What's happening?
This feature was disabled in May 2022. You can read PlayStation's update about it here. No workarounds are currently known.
Where can I buy a Vita?
Vita production ceased in 2019 so consoles can be hard to come by, especially new. eBay is the most prominent location, but Facebook marketplace, Kijiji, Craigslist, /GameSale, and equivalent marketplaces are your friend.
How much is (X) worth? Is (X) a good deal?
You can search sold eBay listings here to get a sense of value. VGPC is another source of this kind of information.
Will (Game) ever go on sale?
As of 2020, Sony has disabled developers' ability to put Vita games on sale. So in all likelihood, no.
The workaround and exception for this rule is that cross-buy games can still be put on sale for the PS4, and cross-buy items will still grant the Vita version (where applicable).
Should I buy an OLED ("Phat") or Slim Vita?
Neither are bad options. The Slim has 1GB of on-board memory, a more standard charging port, slightly better battery life, and is lighter. The Phat has a better screen. It's up to you on what you value more.
Where can I buy replacement Vita parts?
AliExpress and eBay are currently the best sources of Vita replacement parts.
Are Vita consoles region-free?
Yes. A Vita can play a physical game from any region. The digital storefront you can access is determined by the region of your PSN account, and not the region of the console. For example, a Vita from Japan will be able to play any physical game, and if you sign in with a US PSN account you'll be able to access the US PSN storefront.
Vita consoles from Asian regions have the X/O button swapped in the OS ("bubbles") screen, but in-game functionality retains X-to-confirm functionality for almost all games.
It has been reported that consoles intended for China have more stringent region-locking, but these are not commonly found and this is unlikely to affect you.
I'd like some game recommendations!
Check out our Wiki page, 2021 subreddit poll, and 2018 subreddit poll. If that isn't cutting it for you, feel free to ask in this thread or create your own thread on the subreddit. Keep in mind that we require 300+ characters for recommendation posts on the subreddit, so be sure to include plenty of detail about what you're looking for, what you've played, and so on.
I have a question about hacks/homebrew
Check out /VitaHacks - that's their specialty and they've got a pinned thread to help you out.
Curious about what else is coming up? Our full auto-post schedule is here.

https://hubpages.com/business/Roadside-Batteries-Service-is-your-one-stop-shop-for-car-battery-replacement

** Warning: Long Post **
Greetings all,
I was pretty skeptical of the Deck when it came out. A 720p screen with 2 hours of battery life and maybe PS4 processing power sounded like a weird proposition. Last year, I was at home in Canada for 3 months working remotely when my MacBook Air died. I didn't have my Switch with me and so on a whim, I purchased a Steam Deck. I opted for the 512 GB model because a guy was selling one locally at 30% off.
Fast forward to today. I have a nice gaming PC Build (SSUP Meshilicious, 5800x3D, 6700XT, 32 GB RAM, etc.). I also have a Surface Pro 5. The funny thing is, I rarely boot either of them up. For AAA gaming, while the desktop is great, I find most PC ports are horrendously optimised. I would rather play them on my PS5 or Xbox Series X. For everything else, the Steam Deck runs my entire Steam library, Xbox GamePass Cloud, Battle.net and my emulators.
My other desktop PC use consists of the banal stuff: OneNote for vacation planning, web browsing, YouTube, Netflix, email, budget tracking, online banking, etc. The only remotely intensive non-game piece of software I run is DxO Photolab and Affinity for photo editing. That got me thinking...the Steam Deck can handle all of that except the image editing.
So, I went ahead and bought the JSAUX dock with the nVME slot and installed Windows. I can now dual boot when I need to do my photo editing or run a game that is not supported on the Deck. As for the Surface Pro, it's basically been relegated to Netflix in bed duty. I am debating selling it and just getting the largest, cheapest iPad I can find for that use. I am also considering selling my desktop, because I almost never boot it up.
The Steam Deck experience has been so good that I flew back to Canada last week and only brought the Deck, a dock, work laptop, BT compact keyboard and mouse. I dock the Deck when I need to do personal stuff (web browsing, banking, etc.), play games in bed and even use it for watching TV (7" is small, but still bigger than phones). Has anyone else gone down this road?
TL;DR: The Steam Deck is dangerously close to replacing both my laptop and desktop for all my uses.

Currently about 1/4 through a road trip with 3,400kms to go and my muffler has started growling on hills, almost barely noticeable but a little louder when I'm going slower. I've pulled over to wait for a gas station to open as it's 5 am
Think this is something I should be worried about fixing eventually or more immediately. I don't want to get stranded.
Trouble is it's Saturday and I'm thinking places will be booked up in advance.
It is late and dark so I can't see but will crawl under in the morning. I have my two cats and a dog traveling and a small trailer so avoiding stopping to get it fixed would be best.
If I can see a hole I'm capable of patching it if I can get to a canadian tire in Calgary. Which is about 200km away.
Really sorry if this is off topic for this sub Just looking for some expert assurance
I'm driving a 2016 jeep cherokee The exhaust splits into a y mid body and has two smaller exhaust bevels with wire mesh. The growl seems to be coming from that area.

Hi,
I used to use a Steam Controller as a companion for the Deck, but it fell and broke today. I am searching for a replacement, but couldn't find anything that suits me:

• 8bitdo Ultimate back buttons don't work on the Deck
• PS5 controllers don't have back buttons
• Xbox has no gyro aiming

What I need:

• Must work out of the box without Windows. I do not have a Win PC and I don't want to ever attach my gamepad to one.
• Must have gyro. FPSs are just unplayable without.
• Must have back buttons/grip buttons, which I normally use to enable gyro - namely, they should be configurable from Steam
• Very nice to have: touchpad for strategy games
• Nice to have: decent battery life (8+hrs)
• Nice to have: docking station

Hi everyone, I’m experiencing some problems with my Lenovo Carbon X1 3rd gen. It suddenly shut down one day and wouldn’t turn back on. A couple of days later, when I tried to turn it on, it displayed a BIOS message prompting me to set the date and time and after a couple minutes it shut down. I suspected that the issue might be related to the CMOS battery, so I replaced it. However, when I attempt to power on the laptop now, the power button light illuminates but nothing else happens. Occasionally, it makes a “tac” noise before turning off. Does anyone have any suggestions for diagnosing the issue? Thank you in advance!

Hello,
It seems that my remote key is not working at all. It started a few weeks ago, where it would throw msgs intermittently that key not detected or not locking the car, but for the past few days it's been completely dead. I initially thought it was keyfob battery, however the issues exists after replacing with a new battery in keyfob. My spare fob is also not working. At the moment, I am locking the car manually, and starting the car by pressing the push button with the keyfob.
I am not sure if it's the car battery as it all looks good. Is there a way to fix the issue without going to a garage? Anything that I can try to reset or rediscover the key? Or if I have to go to a garage, Hyundai dealer or Halfords a better option (costwise)?

Hey, I am looking at a 2007 Toyota Sequoia with 219k miles on it listed for $5500. It needs new front strut as well as a spring coil conversion in the rear due to failing air suspension. It has recently had its timing belt replaced as well as brakes, alternator, and battery. It's a 4x4 limited. Could this be a good deal and what other things should I look foask? Thanks!

So, I Don't Know How Many Others Figured Out How To Get Their EA App To Work On SteamDeck, But I Tried Several Attempts, And Everything Failed But One Approach.
I Did Successfully Get The EA App To Work, How I Did This?
First, Go To Desktop Mode, Enter Your Browser, Go To EAs Website, Download Their New EA App Installer That Replaces Origin, And Place The Installer Where You Wish To Easily Find It And Wish To Launch It From.
Now Open Steam, Go To Add Non Steam Games, Locate Your EA Installer You Just Downloaded And Add Selected EXE To Your Drop Down List, And Add Selected Highlighted Installer To Your Library.
Now Sometimes The Steam App Will Glitch On Compatibility For Proton, But In Case It Doesn't Glitch On Your End, You Should Be Able To Go To The EA Installer You Just Added In Your Library And Go To Properties And Apply Proton Experimental In Compatibility Tab. If It Glitches It Will Be Greyed Out And You'll Need To Boot Into Gaming Mode To Apply There.
Once You Have Applied Proton Experimental For The EA Desktop App, You Can Launch The EA Installer As Normal In Gaming Mode, Make Sure You Have More Than Enough Space And Battery Before Proceeding. Once Launched It Will Start The Installation Upon A Few Clicks. You May Need To Hold Down Your Steam Button To Activate Your Mouse, Momentarily.
Once The Installation Is Finished, It Should Open A Screen With Your Login Page. If It Does, Don't Do Anything Yet, First, Tap Your Steam Button To Open The App Settings And Go To Your Controller Settings, From There Go To Your Template Layout, And Choose Keyboard (WASD) And Mouse, And Select And Apply With The X Button Before You Go Back To The App Itself, Now You Should Be Able To Use It As Normal Like In Desktop Mode, Now Enter Your Credentials And Login As Normal. Once You Login Repeat The Layout Settings Again For Your EA Desktop App Once Your Logged In To Apply To The Games As Well.
Now, Exit The EA Desktop App, And Open The Installer Again As You Did Before To Launch The Installation Progress From Gaming Mode. Instead Of Launching The Installation Window, It Will Now Open A Dialog Page That Shows - (LAUNCH THE APP) And (REPAIR). Ignore Repair Unless You Need To Repair It. Now Press Your Steam Deck Button Again And Choose Controller Settings And Set The Layout For Keyboard (WASD) And Mouse Again For This Launcher Window To Apply Your Layout, And Now You Should Be Able To Click Launch The EA App. And Now You Have A Fully Operational EA App On Steam Deck.
If You'd Like To Customize The App, First You Need To Have Decky Loader Installed, As Well As SteamGridDB. To Do So, First, Name Your EA Installer To Origin, And Go To Main EA Installer Page, Click The Settings Options And Go To Change Artwork, It Should Pick Up Images For Origin, Apply Whatever You Desire That Best Matches EA Imaginary. And Once Finished You Can Re-Name Origin To EA Desktop App Or Whatever You'd Wish To Name It To.
In Case You Decide To Know Its Installation Path In Desktop Mode, For Me It Was The Following For Default Locations -
Home/Deck/.Local/Share/Steam/Steamapps/CompatData/2602556156/PFX/Drive C/Program Files/Electronic Arts/EA Desktop
When Installing Games, The EA App Will Create Another Folder Out Of The EA App Default Location In The CompatData Folder Inside That Folder It Creates Will Be EA Games Folder That Stores Your Games Directly, You Shouldn't Need To Delete Files There At All, Seeing How During My Testing The EA App In Gaming Mode Seems To Delete All Game Files Successfully, I've Only Tested Plants Versus Zombies And Everything Tested Out Perfectly.
For Anyone Else That Has Figured Out Different Ways To Get The EA App To Successfully Boot Up In Gaming Mode, Please Share Your Ideas, I'd Love To Try Out Other Approaches That Might Be Easier Than Mine. God-Bless The Steam Deck.
Side Note - I Originally Had Origin Installed And Launched The Installer Through Origin Client, It Worked Just Fine, But After I Exited Out, It Wouldn't Work Again Since It Uninstalls Origin Entirely Leaving Your Non-Steam Game Crippled In Gaming Mode, Don't Do This Like I Did Learning From Experience, Just Uninstall Origin From Desktop Mode And Follow My Steps. I Didn't Want To Use A 3rd Party App To Launch My EA Games, I Wanted To Directly Boot EA App In Gaming Mode.

Hey, my current setup is a ifi black label with Sennheiser hd800S headphones. Due to the fact the ifi black label is battery powered and slowly dying more each day I needed a more permanent solution. I recently pushanced a ifi Zen stack to replace my black label however unfortunately it just misses the mark. There is a certain sparkle to the ifi black label which I feel 3d+ offers. What ifi product with 3d+ and Xbas would you recommend for a true replacement? Thank you

Hey, I'm in a situation I thought I'd ask what you would do.
My beloved X-T3 I've had since 2018 and purchased for $1,919 AUD. I've shot weddings and commercial food with it, its been well loved and a few scars to show it.
A while ago card slot 1 stopped working, but I pushed on and used slot 2 in overflow only. I knew that it would be a board replacement likely being a major component. And then the internal battery on the board would no longer hold charge meaning the camera hard reset every time I change the battery. Custom settings/looks/the lot. I sent it off to Fujifilm Australia for a free quote
$680 AUD to repair, main board replacement and 2 hours labor. I'm fine with that its realistic, but is it worth it for an XT-3? I'm likely going to upgrade to an X-H2s or similar coming up but do I fix this as a backup camera? It will likely only be worth $800-1000 in a year or two anyway
View Poll

Hello. So my story is a little bit long but here we go.
First dizziness episode:
I am currently 25 years old. I had my first episode of dizziness in June 2019. At that time, I was already hypocondriac for a good 6 months and I just got out of surgery for a kyst. Suddenly one day I started feeling the ground moving under my feet even tho I was standing still. I freaked out. The days after, my symptoms kept getting worse: constant dizziness, lightheadedness, swaying, brain fog, muscle pain, extreme light sensitivity, blurry vision etc... I felt like I was constantly on a boat. When I was lying down, my body was moving like a boat on sea, when I was standing still the floor was moving under my feet, when i was walking it was like the ground was always soft, like a trampoline.
Fortunately it was at the beginning of the summer between 2 university years. So I went to see all the specialists available under the sun: ENT doctor, neurologist, cardiologist, ER, Rheumatologist... I did CT scans, brain MRI, EMG, ECG, blood test etc. Nothing. Everything was fine. All the doctors were telling me "it's just anxiety, it's in your head, just relax". But I was feeling worst and worst. I gained weight because I was bed ridden. I lost a lot of money going to the capital seeing doctors, but also chiropractors, acupuncters, lot of alternative medecine. I was fed up. I just wanted to die. At that time, I diagnosed myself MdDs because I had all the symptoms and I was feeling much better in a moving vehicule, which was the main factor for a MDDS diagnosis. But I went to see a ENT doctor specialised in dizziness and he told me it was PPPD or maybe a mix of both it was impossible to know for sure.
After 3 months and being still dizzy, it was time to go back to college. I wasn't sure I would be able to but I forced myself and started my 2nd year of law school. At this time, I had started SSRI medication and I was taking valium which was helping me a lot functionning "normally". By doing things, going to class, doing sports, moving myself, I started to slowly noticed improvements. Several times, I thought I was healed but then I got relapses. It was really hard but I kept going ang going. After nearly 10 months on symptoms, I was nearly completly in remission in March 2020, just at the beginning of Covid.
The three years after that, I was completly normal. I continued my studies, went in an student exchange abroad and I am now finishing my masters in corporate law.
Second dizziness episode (now):
This leads up to now. My symptoms came back 5 weeks ago. Unfortunately. I was under a lot of stress and anxiety since 1 month, believing I had brain cancer or MS because I had weird symptoms. I was almost sure I was going to die. I also suffered a hearthbreak and I am really anxious about my future. But I'm not sure it explains the come back of my symtoms. One day, 5 weeks ago, I was shopping and I started feeling dizzy in a shop. Then when I walked in the metro station, I started to notice the ground moving under my feet. I didn't really paid much attention, I didn't want to believe it. But the following day it was way worse, I was feeling extremely dizzy. The ground was moving under my feet and it was way worse when I was in a still position (standing, sitting or laying down). Walking outside, I rapidly get brain fog and lightheadedness.
I went to see all the specialists all over again (less this time because I know now what I have) and the same doctor told me after a battery of tests that I had PPPD. So I started to take back SSRI medication, valium to function normally and started vestibular therapy last week. I am really desperate because I start a very important internship in a law firm. Then I am supposed to do a preparatory class this summer to pass the bar exam on september... I feel like my dreams are crushed because of this. I wake up every morning hoping this monster is gone but I almost immediatly feel my body moving like on a boat so i know it is still there. I fight everyday. I continued to go to class, to go to the gym etc but it is very very hard. I am really anxious about the upcoming weeks as I will be sitting behind a desk 10 hours a day and it is my worst position for my symptoms. I really hope that the SSRI medication will do wonders but I am alreay on week 4...
Thanks for reading me I will try to keep you updated (and btw sorry for my bad english I am french)

So, imagine, you have tech of all kinds (weapons, vehicles, armour, fabricator etc) that's utilizing element zero and Mass Effect Fields. So, when you use dark energy to charge element zero, you get MEF's and this is used for nearly everything in galactic civilization in ME.
Now enter an electrokinesis conduit. Yeah, this dude is majorly powerful too, but I'm just focusing on the fact that he has a constant electromagnetic field around his body, and if he enters water, he basically gets zapped of all his power and basically can die. I'm thinking, if he was to just casually touch a biotic, who has a similar field around them, only it's a mass effect field, that could cause a lot of problems for the both of them right? Maybe they need to match the charge of the other to disrupt said fields, but then you get into the logistics of, do they counter each other in combat?
WHen cole gets shot, his field basically takes a lot of the force and damage for him, and when his skin is penetrated, he can heal rapidly (as well as replace any lost energy through active use of his powers) by draining any power source that has energy flowing through it. Batteries, generators, lights, people. Makes me wonder if the weapons that fire projectiles encased in ME fields would disrupt his EMF more easily or just bypass it all together. Could he short out a suit of armours shields?
I think he would be able to be in a ship and maybe in a larger vehicle, but I'm thinking his proximity to mass effect cores or engines or whatever, could be bad all around.
Imagine him getting near a relay, even in a ship.
I don't know. Anyway, if you look at the Ray Field stuff from inFAMOUS lore and the beast and his powers I can easily see a connection between EZ/MEF and biotics, and the RF and conduits like the Beast.
What do you guys think?

So unfortunately my last 2 original OEM batteries died and I now need a replacement. I searched the sub for a bit and a lot of people recommend KingSener but I didn't see any T60 batteries on their website.
Is there anyone who bought aftermarket batteries that didn't die out on them really quick?